Day 27: We're Coming Home

This final day of H2H 2015 began earlier than the rest, and even the terrible morning people (cough, Damo, cough) were up and ready because we all knew what was at the other end: our friends, our own beds and, most importantly, pizza and BBQ.

I had set a different route into the city from past years in order to completely avoid Highway 1, which is harrowing on a bike, but once I explained it to the DHL drivers they were having none of it. This new way would require a ferry crossing, which they said would take hours since holiday traffic was pouring out of Saigon. So much for that, Highway 1 it was - little did I know that a branch of AH17 has been added to the highway, allowing us to go around the worst stretch. Another benefit was that this significantly shortened the route - instead of nearly 100km as proposed by me, we were now facing a trifling 83. We had told everyone to meet us at Cargo Bar in District 4 at 4pm, so with ample time we enjoyed a long breakfast and could take our time on the road.

We rode differently today: the whole team together, with Kim and Damo out front and me at the back (which, I have to admit, was extremely boring), while the DHL van and Mr. Cuong the white van man acted as buffers at either end. The traffic, especially on the AH17 branch, was surprisingly light and completely manageable, much safer than in years past. After an extended water/Revive/Coke break at a roadside cafe we carried on - our first stop on the way into Saigon would be The Boathouse in Thao Dien, where Bekah, Bex and Thea, the injured riders, would meet us for the final leg into the city.

We rejoined Highway 1 in Thu Duc District and began following the metro construction past Suoi Tien. Coming over a rise you could see the unmistakable silhouette of the Bitexco Tower in the hazy distance and a cheer went up - we could see the end of this amazing journey, and it was an exciting moment.

 We entered District 2 with time to spare and turned off the highway towards The Boathouse, located in the BP Compound. As we went through the security gate at the entrance an extremely drunk Vietnamese man decided to crash his motorbike right in the middle of the group. Unfazed we carried on past the expensive villas and it was high-fives all around as we parked our bikes. Rider Damo is friends with Rod Quinton, the owner of The Boathouse, and he had arranged a 2 million VND tab for the team. We settled into the leafy riverside environs of the restaurant and enjoyed a few very well-deserved brews along with chips and salsa. We also reunited with the three girls who had returned to Saigon earlier in the ride, and it was great to see them in high spirits.

The drivers, Anh Thuong, Anh Thang and Chu Cuong, received Hawaiian shirts as a token of our appreciation for their patience and hard work over the month.

 After one final team picture, and the first full team shot in over three weeks, it was time to head to Cargo and the grand finale. Bekah and Thea, still unable to ride, went in the van, while Bex bravely mounted her Giant and rode along.

Across the river and through Binh Thanh, entering District 1 and riding along the river - it was strange cycling past skyscrapers and condo towers after several weeks of scruffy towns, herds of cattle and epic natural vistas. After one final regroup at a cafe around the corner from Cargo it was time to finish: Bekah and Thea walked along while we held up traffic to finish as a whole. Rounding onto Nguyen Tat Thanh we could see the crowd of friends and supporters gathered at the entrance to Cargo. It was an emotional moment for everyone and, if you'll allow me to indulge for a minute, an especially important one for me. This was my third H2H, and on the previous two I had experienced muscle strains with five days remaining, leaving me unable to finish either time. This year I had sorted the problem out and cruised through the final days with nary an ache or pain. As much as I love the charity, team-building and leadership aspects of H2H, actually finishing the ride was my top priority this time around, and I was doing just that. I'm not usually one for crying, but I couldn't help it as the crowd cheered for us, we chanted H2H and everyone started hugging each other. We had done it. I was so proud to have co-led such a great group of people so a successful finish. (And shout out to co-leader Chris Rolls, who was an absolute pleasure to ride with. To borrow his own favorite phrase, he's a top man.)

And what friends we have - within seconds of dismounting our bikes we were handed pizza, beer and a bottle of Scotch whiskey with a GoPro attached to it (thanks Matt and Alex!). I could see a whole range of emotions on each rider's face: joy and pride at completing such a daunting physical challenge, elation at seeing friends and loved ones, and perhaps a few twinges of sadness as we all realized something special was coming to an end. 

No sadness here though.

It's difficult to sum up something as big and varied as H2H. What I've learned over three rides is that it's a huge undertaking made up of small moments: the smile of a child when you wave back at him; a panorama of utter beauty that flashes by as you rocket downhill at 60kph; the boy in Dong Le who said One Direction sucks; the whole team belting out 'Bohemian Rhapsody' in Buon Me Thuot (Ok, I guess that's a 7-minute moment); stretching with the children at the orphanage in Pleiku; Team North America crushing Team England in kickball; talking to coffee farmers next to the hills they harvest; drinking with cops - the list goes on. As time progresses we'll forget parts of the ride; I'm guessing I'm the only person who can still name every town we stopped in. But I think we'll remember these moments, and we'll certainly remember each other and the causes we rode for.

Of course, the star of the show on H2H is always the incredible country of Vietnam. We've all adopted it as our home, some for longer than others, and what it gives back to you on the ride can never be repaid. The countless people who helped us out of pure generosity, the staggering scenery, the food and the roads. H2H wouldn't exist without this place, and I for one am thankful to have the opportunity to see it in such a way. I enjoy Saigon and all of its creature comforts, but the real Vietnam is out there, somewhere on the road, and I miss it already. Until next time.

Words by Mike Tatarski
Images by Mike Tatarski, Chris Rolls and Tat Lay

P.S. We are still fundraising for our charities until the end of this month! We've nearly broken the $45,000 record set by the 2012 team, and we want to thank everyone for their support. If you'd like to donate please do so here: http://www.justgiving.com/teams/h2h2015

Blog post Day 26: Bao Loc to Phu Coung. 100km.

Blog post Day 26:
Bao Loc to Phu Coung
100km

The penultimate day of H2H began in Bao Loc, Lam Dong Province.

Breakfast was served in the hotel’s restaurant, which can cook an excellent Bun Thit Nuong, and appeared to be a favourite for many locals too. As our lycra-clad team stood to leave, a group of police officers moved onto our table. They looked upon our revealing uniforms with unadulterated jealousy…

After stretches and check out, we left for Phu Coung, a small town 100km away. The initial ride was straightforward, and then at 12km in we were treated with a huge 20km+ downhill. We started almost level with the misty clouds at the mountain peaks, and finished 30 minutes later almost near sea level. It was incredible. The road had been recently laid, the gradient steep, the scenery beautiful. Erratic oncoming traffic meant for a stern test of concentration as you flew downhill whilst remaining alert for trucks and buses on the wrong side of the road. 

The end of the downhill signalled we had successfully traversed the central highlands. I stopped for a deserved nuoc mia and allowed the experience to sink in. it was one of the ride’s highlights, no question. The combination of terror and elation pips the satisfaction of mountain climbs.

It was possibly the best 30 minutes I’ve ever had riding anything, for that matter.

Back on the bike, the land flattened out and the road passed through several large towns and around Cat Tien National Park, home to the Javan Rhinoceros until poachers wiped out the population in 2011. The settlements/roads became noticeably more populated as we neared HCMC. The downhill should have been the day’s only highlight, but that was before I met Tuan and his fantastic family, with whom I stopped for lunch. 

18km from Phu Coung in Dong Nai Province, I decided to stop for some Mi Quang noodles at a small family restaurant. I got chatting to Tuan, also a teacher, and was invited inside his home to meet the rest of his family. I entered a lovely dining room with a big wooden table. The men were having lunch on the floor next to it. 

Despite my protests that his grandmother’s noodles were more than sufficient, Tuan handed me a shot of rice wine and insisted I eat more food. The proceeding hours are somewhat hazy.

First, Tuan played interpreter between myself and his family, although his English diminished rapidly after several more rounds of rice wine had been quaffed. I felt my Vietnamese actually improved after this, perhaps total culture immersion (or consumption) does expediate learning. An uncle added two scorpions to the wine, and my exclamations of ‘Bò cạp, trời ơi!’ caused him to double over laughing, spilling half the bottle on the floor. He added two more scorpions as punishment.

Once Tuan was rendered unable to speak Vietnamese, let alone English, his cousin Ngoc, who studies at university in London, took over translation duties via skype. As I’ve visited her family home, Tuan suggested Ngoc should travel to chez Kimber whilst she’s living in England. I told her not to ruin any of my parents’ wine by adding scorpions – if she did then she’d really find out what’s dangerous. 

With boisterous uncles telling jokes whilst giggling aunts organised us all into increasingly inventive photograph positions, the scene descended into chaos and it was high time I got my back on my saddle and got myself to Phu Coung. My hosts wouldn’t hear of it; they insisted I stayed for 3 days. Tuan revealed the large dining table’s primary use when he attempted to chain my bicycle to it.

Finally they accepted my countless thank-yous and allowed me to leave relatively unscathed. I hopped (and almost fell) onto my bicycle, and began the slog to the finish. Fortunately I stumbled across Chris Rolls a few kilometres down the road, and he patiently guided me home, making sure I rode in as straight a line as possible.

After a recovery nap I joined the team meeting, attended also by the hotelier’s children, who were great fun to play about with. That ended however when their mother stamped on the floor next to my ankle to kill…

…another scorpion. 

Perhaps a good signal that it was time for bed and to focus on the last day’s cycling.

Words: Jack Kimber

Photographs: Jack Kimber & Lien Hoang               

Day 25: Lam Ha to Bao Loc (103km)

Day 25 started with a warm up in the hotel lobby to Gasolina, a 2004 hit with Spanish lyrics by Daddy Yankee.  With confusion on Chris Gallet's face, his first response was...

"Tim, what are they saying?"

Far right: Tim Gomez

We would like our readers to know, that Tim Gomez is from the UK and his heritage is from Guatemala. Not Mexico.

After getting the blood pumping, I decided to set of early from the pack. Not because I was treating H2H as a race but to visit my aunt who lives on the route. She lives in a town called Di Linh, it's exactly 60km into the ride and would be a great place to stop for lunch.

The last time I visited her, she cooked all this for me.

The last time I visited her in 2010

She even fed me.

I know what you're thinking... Look at the size of that gob...

So, I called my sister in law, to call her sister to tell my aunt that I was coming with 16 other hungry riders. 

My aunt is such a humble lady and really enjoys cooking for people. That morning I managed to sprint 60km in just 3 hours. With no break and no regards for any of the graded hills. I just wanted see my lovely aunt and make sure that she was fine with cooking all that food. 

When arriving there at 11am, I learned that there was some miscommunication. One of the sisters was using FaceTime and it mysteriously cut off moments before asking her to cook food. 

Blind panic! 16 hungry riders promised lunch only to learn that there was some miscommunication. Quickly thinking on my feet, I remembered the local town well and recommended a really nice restaurant to all the riders up the road. 

Instead of food, my aunt offered water, Pepsi and Red Bull. God bless her soul, she though that Red Bull is what we needed to get us through the ride. 

My Buddhist teacher was right. 

Compassion, without wisdom, is like a bird trying to fly with only one wing. 

Speaking of wings, Red Bull does not give you wings. Just a giant sugar rush followed by a comedown. 

With Carolyn being able to speak Cantonese to my aunt, the same questions came up. 

How old are you?

Are you married?

Do you want to marry Tat?

Was she really trying to hook me up with Carolyn? Love my aunt. Not the first time she's tried to find me a wife. 

From an early age, I've always made it clear with my mum and aunts.

"I would never let you choose my clothes, let alone my wife." 

Anyway, it was nice for the other riders, to stop by and show their respect for my aunt. Even if it was just brief. Just such a shame that my aunt never got the message in time. She would have loved to have cooked for everyone. 

For future riders, please see below for the location of the restaurant in Di Linh. 

The restaurant is at the end of Di Linh town centre. Just moments after the turning to Phan Thiet. 

It's the largest restaurant in the area

Lots of tour buses stop there and the staff speak English.

Words: Tat

Photos: Chris Tran

Day 24 - Lien Son to Lam Ha

We've been spoiled this week. We spent almost a day and a half in the lovely Buon Ma Thuot on Days 21 & 22, and then Day 23 was the shortest of the trip so far, at only 51km. We then spent the rest of Day 23 playing kickball led by the always versatile Natalie, much to the consternation of the Brits: "This isn't Rounders rules!"

Unfortunately this all served to lull us into a sense of complacency before Day 24, which proved to be one of the top 3 (bottom 3?) difficult days of the whole ride. It was about 114km with five - count em, five - rated climbs. The day started off with a number 3 climb, which isn't much compared to the 1s and 2s of the mountainous days, of what seemed like forever ago. Personally I was feeling it, as it had been at least 3 days since we'd had any kind of real physical and mental challenge (kickball, BBQ and karaoke notwithstanding). Anyway there were two 5s in the day somewhere, but to be honest I have no idea where they are. A 3 is nothing to scoff at, to be sure, but I think most of us don't really rate a 5 as difficult anymore.

At about 52km, the first of the climbs rated at 2 began, but this was deceiving. This climb was supposed to be about 18km, but the first half was a very slow incline and the only true climbing was the latter half of it. Most of us stopped for lunch about halfway through this climb, and then pedaled our little hearts out for the second half, which was a steep 8km ascent without respite. Luckily I was behind the versatile Ms. Kim, who has a much different climbing style than I do. I do a kilometre or two and then I stop and stretch. When she's tired, she just gets off the bike and "walks it off". I think I'm glad I did it her way, mine would have taken too long (or as Kim would put it, "quit faffin' about!")

The next climb was much more scenic, and we ran into a lot of the rest of the team, whom we had only caught up to thanks to Ms. Kim's rigorous climbing technique. I think I may have been slowing her up a little on the second climb, but we powered through.

At the top of the climb I noticed that the right brakepad on my front set of brakes was flush with the right side of my wheel. Ten minutes + a phone call in Vietnamese between Kim and Chuong + Zak and Carolyn showing up + Zak using my multi-tool from my saddlebag = problem solved, and just in the nick of time; the downhill was one of the longer ones we've had so far, and it was almost the entire way into Lam Ha. Actually there was a small town on the downhill, which was pretty neat to look at.

In Lam Ha we ventured out for food and Munich style beers, at a local watering hole wherein the beers may or may not (let's be honest: not) have been endorsed by no less than craft beer aficionado - and oh yeah, President of the United States of America - Mr. Barack Obama. Obama or No-bama, the beer was good and a welcome change from the various Hudas and 333s that we've been used to over the past few weeks. Oh yeah, the food was pretty good too.

Houses on the water, photos taken from a bridge overhead

More beautiful scenery

The girls aren't the only ones who can take sexy pictures!

"My name is Barack Obama, and I approve of this beer."

- Words by Isaac Luchini
Pictures by Michael Tatarski and Isaac Luchini

Day 23 - Buon Me Thuot to Lien Son (49km)

With our last rest day complete, this was the first day of a 5-day long home run to HCMC. Everyone was in high spirits because of the large amount of western food we had consumed over the past 48 hours and because we all knew that the only thing between us and our next destination was a ‘easy’ 49 km cycle.

There really wasn't anything to complain about on this ride. Seen as though we are now ‘expert’ cyclists, 49 km was a piece of cake and it took us around 3 hours to get to Lien Son - including a compulsory coconut and hammock-time relaxation stop. When we reached Lien Son, the first thing on or mind was food. Which unfortunate little restaurant could we take over with our enormous presence, humongous appetites and our terrible Vietnamese?

After some delicious rice, pork, vegetables and egg, it was time for a bit of ‘culture’… Resparc style. Natalie Resparc is the fitness guru of the H2H, so it was obvious that her culture day was going to involve fitness. Exactly what we need to have more of on this ride! Resparc introduced us to the world of kickball, which is basically rounders (which WAS invented BEFORE baseball) with your feet for all of you non-American / Canadians. Even though we were melting in the sun, we had cows very close to a number of players, the rules caused many disagreements and we were playing with a Barbie beach ball, it was an awesome afternoon. It was also the biggest sporting event in Lien Son had ever seen and we had over 20 spectators. May be we should have charged them and put the money towards our fundraising?

After stuffing our faces with delightful 4,000 vnd banh xeos from a lovely little street lady, it was an early night for the H2H team because we know that we NEVER get 2 ‘easy’ days in a row.

Words - Claire Lormor
Pictures - Isaac Luchini  

Day 22 - Thanks Mr Chuong and Mr Cuong!

H2H would like to say a BIG THANK YOU to our bike mechanic Mr Chuong and passenger van driver Mr Cuong. We literally couldn't do the ride without them.

It is H2H belief that Mr Chuong is probably the best bicycle mechanic in the world. No problem is too big or too small for him and he always gives service with a smile! As ever, the team has had various issues during our epic journey, with punctures, spokes, gears, chains, pedals, brakes, derailleurs and entire wheels needing attention. Chuong gave the team bike maintenance training back in Saigon but our skills are basic at best so when problems occur it's such a help to be able to call Chuong who leaps out of the support van with his tools and spare parts to get us back on the road again. As if that wasn't enough, he's also been a translator and photographer for the team and joined in lots of the team socials too. Thanks Chuong for completing your second ride, we hope you enjoyed the experience and will stay involved with H2H in the future!

This is Mr Cuong's third H2H ride (2012, 2013, 2015) driving the passenger van, which carries the first aid kit, spare bikes and all spare parts. Mr Cuong spends the longest time on the road as he drives behind the slowest riders so that no H2H riders are left behind! He is ever patient and also amuses himself by laughing at the riders and making jokes in Vietnamese as we struggle up the long hills! Mr Cuong responded immediately when we had our 3 injuries, making sure the riders got medical attention as soon as possible. In addition, he has helped with hotels, water, directions and bike maintenance and kept the team entertained all the way. The only thing Mr Cuong won't do is eat duck meat with the team and he believes it brings bad luck. He may have a point! Thanks Mr Cuong for completing your third H2H ride, hopefully not your last!

The H2H Support Team is an essential part of H2H and enables us to ride and fundraise for our charities. Thank you for doing what you do!

Words and Pictures - Chris Rolls

Day 21 - Ea Drang to Buon Ma Thuot (BMT)

With a motivated and thorough stretching of our Gluteus Maximuses we left the one road town of Ea Drang on the way to our final rest stop of Buon Ma Thout, the coffee capital of Vietnam.  This stretch of road was beautiful, but in an unremarkable way; much like that of a person remarking on the beauty of a cashier, after judging a modeling competition.  As shallow as that might sound, it is only because of the beauty we had already experienced, that I can say it with the utmost conviction and without any doubt.    

What did stand out from the ride were the road conditions, it was our first time riding on sticky tar, which if you haven’t done, I don’t recommend doing.   It gets everywhere, piercing lycra, saddlebags and gear sets alike, it is a new level of dirt and unpleasantness that can only be rivaled by the poor decisions of drivers that seem to be ubiquitous in larger Vietnamese cities (perhaps something a bit more challenging that a figure of eight is necessary to determine ones dexterity of piloting any sort of vehicle).  On a more positive note we hit a slight sloping twenty kilometer descent into BMT, which was much appreciated as we seemingly glided in like Vikings on the wings of Valkyries en-route to Valhalla, to feast on the plunder of our last rest day.

“The Ede name translates as ‘Thuot’s father’s village’, but Buon Ma Thuot has outgrown its rustic origins without acquiring any real charm. An affluent, modern, but rather characterless city (pronounced ‘boon me tote’) it is inundated by traffic from three highways.” 

- Courtesy of Lonely Planet

While someone was a bit grumpy on their visit to Buon Ma Thout, The H2H team wasn’t.  With its wide sweeping boulevards and its entrance adorned with a much appreciated Co-Op mart (this rider needed rum and deodorant) and a Rolls/Tootz certified KFC, the team was in good spirits, much of which were to be purchased later and poured down parched throats.  Our final rest day was upon us, it was appreciated indeed, however with the ride nearing it’s close it was bittersweet; like the coffee BMT is known for, it was delicious albeit acidic, burning all the way up to the sub cockles of the heart.

After settling in to our hotel and performing the innumerable “S’s” that one becomes accustomed to when living on the road (showering, shaving, sink-washing kits and sleeping) the lads had a bit of a round table going, where we discussed rugby and the problems facing our world today; which if you’re a Brit the two often coincide.  We were shortly joined by Top Man Tootz and the rest of the team, at which point we piled into cabs and headed off to our first stop; a local BBQ joint. 

Simply put the meal was a bit of a blur.  I remember the food being great (even the vegetarian options, albeit even those had meat cleverly snuck in) and the service being better.  Ike was in common Papa-Bear form socks and shoes strewn about a chair while doing his cool down stretches in a Hawaiian shirt and waxing poetic about Wi-Fi passwords.  With our spirits soaring, inhibitions dulled and inebriation imminent we set off to experience Asian culture at it’s most distilled; in the form of a karaoke booth.

After being corralled into a “VIP” karaoke booth we did the impossible, drunkenly deciphered Vietnamese karaoke software in the hopes of finding songs we not only understood but knew.  George being a man of his years and paying no regard to Canada’s only war-crime, decided to play the Bryan Adams discography complete with B-sides for us to sing.  After quickly being rebuked for his poor decision making the night carried on the only way it could; with much table dancing, “seductive” stripping, unfortunate repeats of Oasis songs and team leader Steak providing us with an interesting interpretation of AC/DC’s Hells Bells.   The night, as it must, was finished off with a touching ballad of Bohemian Rhapsody, a cacophony of shouts and gestures that the all-knowing Karaoke machine awarded with a 98%. 

We got back to the hotel early for Saigon and not being tired we walked the streets of Buon Ma Thout. However, after a few kilometers of darkness, George our Brew-kowskian hero of the cool night decided he had had enough and headed back, defeated by the lack of BMT’s nightlife while Carolyn and I walked well into one of the final mornings of the ride.

Words - Zach Kester

Pictures - Chris Rolls